#1

Outdoor Cultivation (Guerilla Grow) Tips

in Beginners Starting out Sat Dec 28, 2013 12:52 am
by ozzydiodude • The Weird One | 2.446 Posts | 11382 Points

Outdoor Cultivation (Guerilla Grow) Tips
Posted by TheStickyIcky at MP

I have seen a lot of outdoor grows that need some help. Not that I'm an expert, but I am fairly well-versed in the ways of guerilla growing. So, I thought I would make a list of tips and tricks to help out new growers. It's all really common sense.Stealth is everything with outdoor grows. You have other growers and police that will be looking for your crop and you have to conceal it well or someone will snatch it up.


Scouting
I would say almost half of the work I do is before any plants are even in the ground. Scout and scout well. If you live in the country and you can take off walking from your backyard and be in the wilderness that is great. It keeps you from leaving noticeable trails from roads and/or parking a car somewhere. If you can't, when searching for a spot always go for roads less travelled. The more traffic on a road the more problems that could arise (People see you coming out of a woods, walking down a road with gallon jugs, or any other conspicious activity). I ALWAYS have someone drop me off when I am transplanting, fertilizing or any time I am going to my plants. You NEVER want to leave your vehicle parked on the side of the road. Thats very suspicious and if people see it there a couple times they will begin to think something. A lot of people get robbed that way. Now, when you are looking for a spot you want to look for an area that gets PLENTY of light. Thats the other really important key. I like to put plants in places that get all of the morning sun until atleast 2 or 3pm and get indirect light the rest of the day. But, be careful that this place isn't in the wide open. Fields are an ABSOLUTE NO-NO.

Picking a spot
Good places are in cut timber and blackberry thickets. I like for the undergrowth to be as tall or taller than my plants at all times, especially harvest. In cut timber the plants will get plenty of light because of the spaces that are created by thinning out the trees. I like to find a big tree thats in an area that gets plenty of light and go to the fork of it and put plants right in the fork so that there are logs and brush on either side of the plants. Also if possible walk down as many logs as you can getting to plants, it eliminates or breaks up potential paths. Briar and blackberry thickets are very stealthy as well because a lot of times they will approach 10 feet in height and provide surrounding cover as well. Find away to go into the middle of the patch (going under limbs and stuff where it doesn't look as if a human has being going in there) and clear out a spot by cutting down the briars. Don't cut too much, just enough to clear enough area for the number of plants you plan on putting in there. There are plenty of other good places as well. Just make sure the surrounding vegetation and undergrowth is thick. If someone is going to find my plants I want to make them work for it. They wont be able to spot them unless they walk right up on them. I don't want someone to be able to spot my plants unless they actually get 10 feet or less from them. Thats why the surrounding growth is so important.

Caring for your Plants
Now that you have your plants in the ground (and I did say ground). Because you really want to stray away from buckets or other containers. They don't like natural. They standout even if you paint them. They also raise the height of your plants which makes them more visible and is also something you want to stay away from. Also, buckets and containers dry out quicker than the ground will. Which means you will have to make more trips to your plants. The next thing you want to worry about is paths. I try to go to my plants a different way every time I go to my plants. A path is your worst enemy. If you leave one, especially if its from the road chances are someone may end up walking down it eventually. So, try to go a different way everytime or atleast don't go the same way you did last time. You want to minimize the amount of trips to your plants as possible. And if they are in the ground you can do this. If you do leave a bit of a path you can use grass seed to cover it or plant some type of ivy to break the path up. Most types of ivy are nearly impossible to kill and you can just throw them along the ground and they will take root on their own. You can get away with going to your plants every two weeks (sometimes more if the rain is cooperative). Mother nature will take care of itself if you do things right. Also, most people should pretty much stray away from fences. They will give your plot away just as fast as anything. A fence is unnatural and will give you un-needed attention. Also, you have to carry that in there before and after growing season and its pretty hard to explain why you are carrying fence in and out of the woods. And if you leave it in there after season then you are risking someone finding it and the majority of people will know EXACTLY what it was for. I have found several as a hunter myself. Don't underestimate where hunters go or what they see.

Other things to think about
You never want to put too many plants in one spot. That only increases your exposure. A group of 20 is a lot easier to spot than a plot of 3. Never put all of your plants in one spot. Anything could happen to them and you don't want your entire crop to go down in one fell swoop (Animals, Growers, Police). Something else to make them harder to find are employing growing techniques such as LST, supercropping, and topping. Topping and Supercropping will keep the plants shorter and harder to spot. While LST can be very effective because you can grow a HUGE healthy plant and make it almost impossible to spot. If you keep tieing it over and running it along the ground you can grow it out with almost no risk of someone finding it. People aren't looking along the ground for plants, they are looking eye level. Another thing, if you plan to grow in that spot or area again don't cut the plants off and leave the stalk. Pull the plants and root up so someone doesn't see the stalks left over. Never leave any kind of trash near your plants or in the woods, this can also give them away. Water jugs, soil bags, fertilizers or anything else are all bad ideas. I try not to carry anything in or out with me unless it is neccessary. I always like to have some kind of back story as well as to why I'm in there. Have something in your mind already, don't try to improvise. This is just incase you run into someone in the woods while you are walking in and out (possibly the landowner). I use several including "I lost my hunting dog."; "icking blackberries.", etc. If you ever think you hear someone coming or you get a bad feeling then leave the plants. You DON'T want to be caught tending to them. Always follow your instincts.

These are pretty much the basics to Guerilla growing. I'm sure not everyone will agree with what I have to say and I'm sure there are things that I have left out, but this is a pretty good overview. Be safe, Be stealthy, and GOOD GROWING.


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#2

RE: Outdoor Cultivation (Guerilla Grow) Tips

in Beginners Starting out Sat Dec 28, 2013 1:31 am
by ozzydiodude • The Weird One | 2.446 Posts | 11382 Points

SFC posts

Great guide Sticky. The only thing I can add to it is the cornfeild game.

First thing..... Wait until they spray! This is usually done when the corn is around knee high, they will also likely cultivate at this time.

Plant at night. Place the plants in singles ,or maybe doubles and spread them way out. I walk 200 paces between plants. BTW to do this with any success you really need a GPS,and you need to go deep. When you do place a plant put it directly in line with the rows. Then clear 6-8ft to the south,and 3ft or so to the East,and West. To the North leave the corn basicly in place relatively close to the plant, not over top of it though. I cannot state enough the importance of clearing the grow spot. GPS as great as it is is not laser accurate. By clearing a 6x8ft spot you have something to see if you are off by 50ft or so. That doesn't sound like alot but it is. Not only that but if your plant is dug,or ate by critters you will be able see where it shoudl have been,and then delete it.

This may sound like alot of work, and yes it is. That is the whole point. If LEO is flying around in the fall,and they realize how hard they will have to work, they will likely choose to pick an easier target. Just picture them hovering over head trying to tell the guys on the ground where they have to go, in the middle of a huge cornfeild. No fun for the guys on the ground,and it will eat up loads if time with the chopper. They would much rather find a large plot so they can get some time on teh 6 oclock news.....

Good luck all.

bombbudpuffa

Prefertilize the soilI know this means finding a plot, fertilizing then going back and planting but it could save you a great deal of time packing nutes and such back to the grow spot. Adding a lil perlite, lime, worm castings and potting soil a few weeks before planting would be very beneficial.

Ekoostik_Hookah

Pee on bushes, or plants that are near your plants.
DONT pee on the soil close to your plants......you just want your urine sent in the area...i believe it keeps deer away, and they will not nest where you have marked with urine...

As far as protecting against bugs.....i spray a circle of killer.reppelent on the wildlife around my plants.....not close enough to get on the mj plants, but enough to keep some bugs out of the area.

Also, if your looking to do just a few ourdoor mj plants...i would say learn about tree top growing.....its advised that your a good climber...but tree top grows are very stelthy, and can get lots of light.

"That's also fairly susceptible to helicopters. So, if they look for grows in your area with heli's you might want to stray away from this. It is a pretty effective way to hide your grow from people on the ground.""

Do you understand how hard it would be to see a single MJ plant in a huge tree.
I have done it several times in a tree, and i was never worried about heli's seeing my plants.
I had 4 in one tree once, they all grew to about 5+ feet tall..

The Heli's are looking on the ground for plants man, not on the tips of trees...... for sure

TheStickyIcky

If you know about treetop planting, so do cops. So they look there. One plant is hard to spot anywhere. But, like I said it will be easier to find in a tree (which brings it up closer to the heli) than on the ground.

Plus, its just not an option for most people. Most people can't climb good enough to get up in the tree safely and navigate their way around. Plus it would take quite a while to visit say 20 plants you had in trees. Just not very effecient, IMO

Hick

I gotta go w/ sticky on this one.
Treetop growing might work for some folks, but IMHO, a limited few. I have seen it done....somewhat successfully, but don't know anyone that ever done it twice.
Plants in buckets are going to require someone to climb that tree, at least once p/week, with a bucket of water. Hoists 'n pully systems, would IMO, only attract attention to the grow.

Ekoostik_Hookah

yea i understand what you 2 are saying......but it works for me.

However hick, you ( or I) dont use pullys, or buckets.
I buy pre-camo burlap.....then i wrap up the soil in the burlap very well....
The burlap is easy to mount up in the tree, and for added safety i tie the sack to w/e branch im using.( looks like a birds nest, if u can even see it)

I did forget to mention that climbing is a favorite thing for me to do, weather its climbing rocks, trees, walls...w/e....ill climb it.
so its not so bad to climb a tree, and check on my girls.
and as far as watering goes.....it is outdoors, so it gets some water....but in a whole grow i only watered and gave nutes about 6 times.........wasnt to bad.
w/e blows your skirt i guess?


Originally Posted by Hick
..Ahhh, you "make" your own growbags with the burlap?

Ya i guess so, what do ya mean by "make" ?? ( like why in quotes)

all i really do is measure the size of the burlap, then i line a bucket with the burlap.....then transplant the plant into the burlap/bucket...
then just tie off the burlap...and pull it out of the bucket.
then walah you got a burlap grow bag.

Its great that they make camo burlap ))))


longtimegrower

Outdoor Cultivation (Guerilla Grow) Tips
Over the last few years it seems you either don`t need to do any watering or you and all your buddies cant tote in enough water.
It is hard to hall enough water during a long dry period too keep your plants growing. Mostly you will just be keeping them from dieing so everything you can do to save moisture and minimize stress will mean the difference in having a crop for the fall or not.

Some things that will help cut down on watering trips. Buy some good seeds that grow well even under dry conditions I have found one line of seeds that i really think that does well and that i have a lot of confidence in because of the large stems and huge leaves and so I am sticking with them untill I learn of something better. I could list which ones but I don`t wan`t to influence your choice. Let trial and error be your guide.

Plant in the ground and not in pots or you will have to go every other day and water if it turnes dry. Use good soil weather you have to carry it to your grow or pick a grow place with good soil. Plant after last frost but plant early this way your plants will get big enough and grow a good root system before the hotest part of the summer hits because this is usually the dryest part of the year. Most of the time. If you are setting out plants or clones and its early in the year dig your holes deep enough so you can set your plants deeper in the ground. You can just leave the top and the first couple leaves sticking out above the ground. This will give you a deeper root and even the stem part you burry will grow roots making a deep tap root. If your plants are knee to waiste high with lots of big leaves it will do fine with some dry weather. Let them go several days in dry conditions as long as its not stressing or wilting. This alows the tap root to search deeper into the soil in search of moisture. Once the roots grow large and deep you will find your plants do quite well without having to water three times a week. Even if you have 5 feet plants instead of 7 foot plants. I much prefer a five foot plant that no one saw me watering and that i get to harvest. Also you can cover the area around your plants with leaves small sticks and bark or even just some extra soil pulled up around them. Anything that will help hold in the moisture and make your lower roots grow deeper in the ground will cut down on your watering trips. If you can plant close to large logs because moisture will be present and last longer where the ground is covered and shaded by the dead tree trunk. The roots of your plant will grow in the direction of the most moisture even if its under a log. You wan`t cover to help hide your plants but try too stay away from large trees and bushes as the ground tends to dry out much faster where the trees are pulling all the water from the ground. One sumer we went from June 4th untill the first of october with only a trace of rain. I made use of some large log piles left rotting from when they cut timber out 2 years earlyer. It was like a huge pile of rotting potting soil that the roots could grow really Deep into to find moisture left from winter and spring rains.. Even under drought conditions my plants continued to grow.

For me night time is the best time if you have to go water. During the day you can use bird watching and other excuses for being out but if your carrying a large container of water and your not going to a fire then it probally means your watering something and even the dumbiest people can figure out what you are up to. Even though its dark at night there is still at least 10 days a month with good moonlight to see by so you can leave those flash lights at home. For the other days if you go out and alow your self 30 min for your eyes to adjust to the low light you will find you can see quiet well to work at night. If you have a spot that you can only visit at night don`t be tempted to sex your plants with a flashlight. You can do like i do and either. Sex all your plants before you set them outside, this will mean you are only hauling water for the female plants, or you can cut a lower top off and bag it in a way you can remember where its from. Later you can sex it back at home. Watering after sundown gives your plants several hours for the moisture to soke in. This allows your plants time to use all it can before the heat of the day returns. When you do water take a few extra min to pour slowly so it will soak in and not just run off. This will also allow for more time before the next watering Trip.

When it is dry plants are apt to stress a lot more, don`t do anything extra that will cause your plants too stress like topping LST or amending your soil. All of this should be halted when you notice a dry pattern starting. Some times you just have to waite it out and pray for rain. Even if you notice its so dry your plants aren`t growing any. They will survive if they are big enough and have a lot of large fan leaves to help hold water for the plant so dont be tempted to pull those big leaves to smoke or let light get to the plant. It is not uncommon to loose 50% or more of the big fan leaves during a dry period. Even if you notice your large fans turning brown and drawn up and falling off don`t panick. Plants can hold out for a long time untill rain comes. Your plants will be using this time to spread out underground so when it does rain they will hit a fast groth spurt that will replace the lost leaves and more than make up for the lost groth. I have even had the drought run well into the budding time. The buds grow slower and fill out slower when its really dry. Buds that have been set back will swell in a couple days after it finally rains. But even if it never rains intime before that years crop is done you can still have a stash for the winter if you have done the work and gone that extra mile to give your girls the best possiable shot of making it even under dry conditions. Slim

slowmo77

i've found it very useful to plant near creeks and streams. not so close that someone walking the creek could find my plants but close enough were i don't have to carry water in ever. a big black trash bag rolled up in your pocket will hold more water than you can carry without ripping, its easy to carry and easy to work with. fill it up with as much as you can carry without killin yourself, then when your ready to water just cut a small hole in the corner and let it pour. twist and tie to stop the water. works like a charm.

i also take a medium container with me filled with what ever nutes i plan to use. then i bury it that way its there when i need it and less to carry in. but make sure its buried where YOU can find it. i mark things buried with old rusty coke cans under the leaves or something that blends in the area that only i would remember to look for. good luck this year and stay safe everyone

OldPainless

In my opinion planting on private property is very disrespectful. You either want to find state land, or natural protected forests. I always plant directly in the ground. I used 50 by 50 rows back in the 80's. Out lined my area in stale urine that I saved from the road trips to and from my grow areas. I used old (and new) deer carcass's to keep predators in the area. I also found planting near water to be a bad idea- in my opinion. A lot of times I'd come back midway through grow and half my plants were gone because of so many animals. This is also bad for another reason too. Most often then not people, little kids, will follow bodies water or at least stay near to one so they know where they are. My theory is always plant more than you want cause you never what nature could hold in store

But to perfect the outdoor grow, get legal and move out of town where you can use your own garden.

clanchattan

for those of you with national or state forest access, look for large standing dead hardwoods on southward facing ridges, and plant under them. dead trees = no canopy to block the sun and planting south of the trunk ensures that the trunk will not shade your plant as the sun travels north and then south as the summer waxes and wanes. the undergrowth should be fairly limited, and being on a ridge helps with not only getting early sun, but most animals wandering around the woods (humans included) have a habit of thking the easiest way through the area.

and stay away from black walnut trees, they will poison just about any thing you try to grow near them.

flyingnatural

A few notes:
I do not think planting near a water source (river streams) is a good idead.These waterways are avenues for copters & other aircraft.I have adopted a water catment system which gives me plenty of on hand water.You can see this in my "green cloud" thread.
Also,if your planting on a mountain face make sure it faces north.
A good rule of thumb is,if you were a hunter,would you shoot,track,and drag a deer from your prospect area?..
Keep your area as clean as nature would want it.
Do not tell anyone who would not die for you,or do time with a tight lip for you about your spot.
A heavy Lb teat (15 or 20lb) fishing line around the perimeter of your spot a lil' higher then waiste high,does wonders for deer,I have not had a problem.I put one circle around my garden about 15' away from plants in all directions then another around the first wrapping around trees (and piss when I have to)
Use organic nutes if you can and whenever possible.
Don't destroy natural flora,foliage,trees and shrubs especially if your in a protected park!! It is more noticable from the air,and its just not cool nor do I agree with it AT ALL.How would you like your plants ripped out..
Keep hydrated!! If you gotta hike in and out your gonna need to be in tip top shape mentally and physically,without water you'll be finished.Bring water for YOURSELF as well as some trail mix or something light...take the wrappers with you,they are a trail to your location!!
Stay cool

joshelkins23wv

i grow outside every year,been doing it for about 9 years now.This is the first year i have grown indoors and i started just a few weeks ago.I had a female plant that was way way smaller than the other,so i brung her in and stuck her under a light and revegged her,shes doing great,ready for cloning soon.But anyway the other plants i have outside are doing awesome,not really sure what they are some look like sativas,some indicas,some hubrid..i did grow a few years with the same seed,i would grow a patch just for breeding and each year the smoke was better.but i lost those seeds and just had to pick a few seeds out of bags this year..but like i said they are doing great,i dont like a tall plant so i try to top them 3 or 4 times in a grow season,keep them short and bushy,althought this year for some reason i havnt topped any of my plants.but i do have them in some pretty secure places.1 of my sativas is about12 feet tall,and about 7 foot wide and another sativa that i have is about 10 foot.The reast are anywhere from 7 to 9.I mostly grow in briers.Yeah u will get scratched up prett bad,butits worth it...sin shines on them really good and u can pull the briers over the plant to hide them and plants intend to just grow up threw the briers with out any problems.When i plant out door i dig my holes about 2 feet deep and a foot 1//2 wide.Thats plenty, i fill them up with 50% miracle grow potting soil and good rich ground dirt.I like to start my plants in white starafoam cups,then i take them tranplant in my holes,water really good and lettem grow..that simple...alot of people dont like to miracle grow everyday but i do when its outside...i water every morning and every evening ..then i take a spray bottle and spray just the leaves and buds.I have had some of the stickiest bud i have ever saw or smoked by doing that.

Rule of growing marijuana!
1.Never show anyone.
2.Never tell anyone.
3.take different routes in and out of patch
4.dont get impatient and harvest to soon
5.if ur gonna do it-then do it right

GuerillaGrower420

My thoughts on Guerilla Growing:

Who knows the woods, fields, etc. better than a hunter? I think hunting and growing is a great metaphor for eachother in a way. You don't want to be seen, smelt, or detected in any other way. You have to know your surroundings and what to look for.

Finding a place.
Rule of thumb, break your plots up into different areas, and in small groups of about 3. Look for natural like, BUT good over head protection from the choppers. Spent a few hundred dollars and put a few trail cams out to watch for people, or something even more simple: A 6 pack of beer with one missing, half a tin of chew or a few cigarettes in a box, a wallet with a couple dollars in it, etc. You need to make sure people do NOT frequent this area. Dig your holes, and put them right in the ground. Grow bags are a good way to go for premixed soil, if you have bad soil, etc. Buckets are not acceptable when trying not to be detected, PERIOD. Make it look natural, covert, and guerilla style. Not near roads, right by water sources, etc. Practice topping methods, or LST. Leave nothing behind except your plants. Wear gloves, tape your boots, cover your face, don't talk, etc. Take your nutes, water jugs, and whatever you took with you, back out of your grow spot.


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#3

RE: Outdoor Cultivation (Guerilla Grow) Tips

in Beginners Starting out Sat Dec 28, 2013 1:42 am
by ozzydiodude • The Weird One | 2.446 Posts | 11382 Points

FourTwenty

Found This on Guerrilla growing thought i would post it here.........


Guerrilla farming mean farming outdoors, away from your own property, or in a remote location of your property where people seldom roam around. It is possible to find locations that for one reason or another are not easily accessible or are privately owned. Try to grow off your property, on adjacent property, so that if your plot is found, it will not be traceable back to you. If it's not on your property, nobody has witnessed you there, and there is no physical evidence of your presence (footprints, fingerprints, trails, hair, etc.), then it is virtually impossible to prosecute you for it, even if the cops think they know who it belongs to. Let me stress that: farm off your property and leave no physical evidence.

Make sure your cannabis plants are out of sight. Take a different route to get to them if they are not in a secure part of your property, and cover the trail to make it look as if there is no trail. Make cut backs in the trail, so that people on the main trail will tend to miss the cut-back to the grow area. Don't park on the main road, always find a place to park that will not arouse suspicion by people that pass on the road. Always have a good reason for being in the area and have the necessary items to make your claim believable.


Germinate your marijuana seeds at home and replant outdoors after 2 weeks. Always grow high yield outdoor cannabis seeds strains, do not waste your time and effort for bagseeds. Try to plant under trees, next to bushes and keep only a few plants in any one spot. Train or top the plants to grow sideways, or do something to prevent the classic christmas tree look of most plants left to grow untrained. Tying the top down to the ground will make the plants branches grow up toward the sun, and increase yield, given a long enough growing season. Plants can be grown under trees if the sun comes in at an angle and lights the area for several hours every day. Plants should get at least 5 hours of direct early morning sun every day, and 5 more hours of indirect light. Use shoes that you can dispose of later and cover your foot prints. Use surgical gloves and leave no fingerprints on pots and other items that might ID you to the fuzz... in case your plot is discovered by passers by.

Put up a fence, or the chipmunks, squirrels, and deer will nibble on your babies until there is nothing left. Green wire mesh and nylon chicken fencing net work great and can be wrapped around trees to create a strong barrier. Always check it and repair every visit you make to the garden. A barrier of fishing line, one at 18" and another at 3' will keep most deer away from your crop. The best fence in the world will not keep rats away from your plants! Do not use soap to keep dear away, it will attract rats! (The fat in the soap is edible for them.) Put the poison grain in a feeder than only small rodents can enter, so that birds and deer can't eat it. Set out poison early, before actual planting. The rats must eat the grain for several days before it will have any effect on them. Ultimately, you may find it's easier to grow in a greenhouse shed in your own backyard rather than try to keep the rats from eating your outdoor plot.

When growing away from the house, in the wild, water is the biggest determining factor, after security. The amount you can grow is directly proportional to the water available. If you must pack-in water, carry it in a backpack in case your seen in-route to your garden; you will appear to be merely a hiker, not a grower.

Transporting vegetative starts to the growing area is a most tricky aspect of growing outdoors, but germinating your marijuana seeds in spot is out of the question. Usually, you will want to germinate the cannabis seeds at home, keep seedlings indoors, or outside in your garden, then transport them to the grow site once they are firmly established. It may be desirable to first detect and separate males from females so that no effort of transporting/transplanting/watering males is incurred. Male female cannot be told by looking at the cannabis seeds, so you have to wait for seedlings to show sex signs.

One suggestion is to use 3" rockwool cubes to start seedlings in, then put 20 of them in a litter pan, cover it with another pan, and transport this to the grow site. The cubes can be planted directly into soil. If spotted in-route to the grow area, burying a dead cat may be a good excuse for being in the area. Few people would demand to see the rotting corpse!
It is important to start your guerrilla garden with quality genetics, preferably high yielding cannabis seeds strain, pest and cold resistant if you plan to plant early in the season. Most reputable seedbanks carry marijuana seeds varieties for early spring outdoor growing.

Alot Of people say to use irish spring soap but it states above that it will attract rats im gonna do some more research and will get back to you all with my findings

Here are somethings I've found online confirming that rodents eat soap.

- "Something I found out recently - mice love to eat soap; so store any soap you keep outside in a container. I had a cake of it in my shed and it seems it was a tasty feast for them. They'll also eat leather and cloth if other food sources aren't available."

- "Rats have also been known to eat Soap, leather, furs, candy, milk, meat, vegetables, poultry, eggs, grain, seeds, fruit, nuts, snails and other rodents. A rat can eat a third of its body weight each day."

- "Rats will eat almost anything. Like most rodents, their original food would have been grain and seeds, but they have adapted their diet to include anything they can gnaw on; stored grain and vegetables, leftover food, waste of all kinds, even the likes of chipboard and soap! They will also take animal prey like worms and insects. Their instinct for gnawing is so strong that they will also gnaw on things that have no food value, such as plastic and electrical wiring. And all this makes them a pest.

HomieDaGrower

I live in the Ozark mountains, and have been growing outdoors for 20+ years. I also used to rock climb, before I became disabled. I combined my two hobbies, and started crevice growing. I would find southern facing rock faces, with some crevices. I would buy some small size hardware cloth, about like window screen. Using hardware cloth, build a bowl in a crevice, about 20 yards from the bottom of a rock face. Fill with amended soil, and transplant into the amended soil.
One of the cool things about crevice growing is that if it rains on top of the mountain the water tends to run down the crevice watering your babies. Another cool thing is that people are not looking for weed growing out of a crevice. Make sure you do not choose rock faces that are popular with climbers, for obvious reasons. If you choose your grow spots well, you will never lose your plants to rippers or the LEO. I crevice grew for over 10 years without ever losing plants to animals, rippers, or cops.

Peace Out
HomieHogleg


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